Bike Around Provincetown in the Calm of the Autumn Season

Even though they had a car, Aaron and David  rented bicycles while in PTown.

 

The other day I met two men who were on a quick, mini vacation in Provincetown, packing in as much as they could in a brief trip. David has been visiting us for about 20 years, while this is Aaron’s first time here, so David had all kinds of things he wanted Aaron to see, and do, and taste.
They made the rounds over the short time they had to spend here, having escaped Los Angeles for a very quick trip. They had a car at their disposal while here, but decided to rent bicycles, for the ease of getting around by bike to spots they wanted to visit, and for the sheer enjoyment of pedaling their way from one end of town to the other in this dazzling weather we’re having.

They drove up to Provincetown Bike Rentals (which is just finishing its new parking lot for their customers,) rented a couple of beautiful new bikes, and drove off with them! Ah, but there was method to their madness…They drove to the Far West End of Provincetown (perhaps they were staying somewhere in that neighborhood,) and that’s where their adventure began.

The Breakwater is among PTown's most popular walking spots.

They started out at the Breakwater, the famous granite jetty in the Far West End, hiking the mile-and-a-quarter length of it across the harbor and wetlands out to the shifting sands of Long Point, and that fabulous view.
Once back on terra firma following their hike, they biked out into a bit of the lovely Cape Cod National Seashore, past the saltwater pond that rises with the tide, then pedaled up toward the Far East End.
From there, they made stops all around the town. They even spent some time with horses belonging to a friend, visiting Provincetown’s last remaining bit of pasture. They were packing in the adventures on this trip.

On previous visits, David had ridden all of the various spurs that make up nearly eight miles of gorgeous paved bike trails in PTown, but the two decided that on this trip, with their time here limited, that they would concentrate on exploring the town itself, and showing Aaron around.

These two gentlemen covered an impressive area, visiting a good number of spots during their brief stay, and it was all that much easier navigating the town by bicycle rather than on foot or by car. Aaron says he’ll definitely be back, and plans next time to hit the bike trails, which will be waiting for him.

They managed to visit restaurants all around the town as well; again, easier by bicycle. They commented on great meals they had found, particularly several dishes at the Lobster Pot, the huge lobster roll at Bayside Betsy’s, and the Mayflower’s clam chowder, along with their spaghetti and meatballs.

Bradford Natural Market has great food to take out or eat in.

I met them when they sat down at an outdoor table to gobble down a quick lunch at 141 Bradford Natural Market. Aaron loved his authentic Cuban sandwich, served hot off the Panini grill, and David raved about his Thai Peanut Chicken.
I was there picking up a few groceries and having a little something from their daily hot food bar, having lunch on a welcoming bench in front of the market. I was enjoying the glorious sunshine and a meal I hope to have again sometime. The White Beans with Tarragon over Jasmine Rice was soooo good that I’ll be writing about it shortly.

I had seen the guys pedal up to check in their bikes with Mike, who owns Provincetown Bike Rentals, at 136 Bradford Street, right across from the market. Easy as pie, they were in and out in mere moments, and then they dashed across the road for some food, having just an hour left in Provincetown to eat something, pack their stuff, catch the three o’clock ferry to Boston, and then their plane back to LA.

We chatted a bit between delectable mouthfuls, and then they were off, having had a remarkable, whirlwind, mini vacation in Provincetown, made all the better with a fun, convenient bike rental, this gorgeous weather we’ve been having, and some great food throughout the town.

If you’re planning a visit to Provincetown, consider renting a bike to get around. The Bay State Ferry from Boston extended their schedule by an extra couple of weeks or so this year, so there’s still time, if you’re quick, to get here and enjoy this beautiful fall weather and your own adventure, pedaling around PTown in the serenity of the autumn season. Come join us!

The Herons Are Back in PTown's Wetlands

This striking heron stands motionless amidst reeds and grasses turning golden in the autumn season.

A month ago I wrote about the dearth of birds in and around the Provincetown wetlands, since hardly any had been spotted, except for the eastern great egret, sometimes called the white heron. That bird was seen regularly for a few weeks, but various night herons and others weren't appearing as they had in years past.
Now, for the last couple of weeks it seems that a couple of pairs of great blue herons have been making regular appearances among the little rivulets that raise and lower with the tides in the wetlands of the Far West End, to the west of the breakwater. Look for these stately birds when the little salt water creeks they fish in are at about half tide. That means a bit before or after the actual half tide in the harbor, since it takes a while for the tidal flow to seep through the breakwater and change the depth of the water circulating amongst the grasses and reeds.
These two couples are particularly handsome. They each seem to be very large, sleek, well marked examples of this lovely species, with the dark patches at the shoulders and thighs easily visible. A bit of your time spent patiently watching for them is quite likely to be rewarded with some remarkable sightings, and a chance for photos.

Today's Staggeringly High Tide in PTown

Today's high tide reached about 11 feet 4 inches, about 6 inches short of the record. Around 1:30 this afternoon, about 15 minutes before high tide, I spotted this fisherman, who looks as though he's wondering what to do next. He stood there, transfixed, and didn't move all the while I watched him as the choppy water in the west end of the harbor lapped over the breakwater beneath his feet. Walking on this granite jetty in PTown's West End this afternoon was challenging, and probably foolish, with few attempting it until the tide began to recede.

West End Waters Lure Anglers

These gentlemen are loading up to go after the striped bass.

These two men are getting ready to launch their canoe and get out into the water in the far west end of Provincetown Harbor, down near the breakwater, and with any luck they might bring back a few striped bass. And it may not take much luck, because bluefish and stripers have been found in pretty good numbers recently in many spots off PTown shores.
This particular spot most often has calm waters, so there isn't a great deal of skill or experience required to paddle out and try your hand at fishing, or you can cast a line from the breakwater when the tide is in. You can easily rent a boat or a kayak in many spots in Provincetown, or visit the hardware store or beach shop to pick up a simple rubber raft.
Nelson's Bait and Tackle will rent you rods and reels, which come with bait and lures, or you can buy your equipment if you're ready to really commit yourself, and the experts at Nelson's can give you all kinds of advice on technique, location and equipment to help you get out and land that big striper.
If you're up to some serious hiking and wading, traversing the tidal flats, marshes and tributaries of the outer cape, Nelson's can arrange a trip led by a legendary certified fishing guide like Steve Kean, who spends nearly every waking moment from spring through the autumn fishing somewhere on the outer cape, wherever the fish are biting. And if you're ready for some deep sea fishing, they can arrange a fishing trip for you on Beth Ann Charters, on a 35 foot boat that can take you out after anything from cod to haddock to blue fin tuna.
Nelson's is also a certified weigh-in station for the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, so you can weigh your catch for official entry into the state's saltwater fishing record books. Don't forget your hat and sunscreen, and get out and go fishing in this gorgeous weather we've been having all summer.

Tidal Extremes in Provincetown Harbor

The high tide can easily rise above this level, so be cautious on the breakwater.

Last month I wrote about the extremely high and low tides we've been having. If you notice the level of the harbor as the water creeps up the side of the west end breakwater as the tide is rolling in, you'll see extra high tides, especially around the time of the full moon, followed by very, very low tides.
I wrote about the astrological reasons for these extreme tides, and you can click this link or just scroll down to the bottom of this page to find out what is making the tides so high and low.
Suffice it to say, just be cautious if you venture out onto the breakwater as the tide is coming in. We'll continue to have these extreme tides at least through the month of September. The safest time for this stroll is still after the crest of the tide, as the water begins to recede. And be sure to wear sturdy shoes, not a pair of flip-flops.

Very Low Tides Make for a Great Walk on the West End Tidal Flats

With the full moon comes not only a few days of quite high tides, but also some exceptionally low tides as well. I don't pretend to know how all that moon and tide stuff works, but I've noticed that a very low tide and a very high tide seem to go hand in hand. Whenever I see a very low tide it seems to be pretty well guaranteed to be followed by a high tide that exceeds the average high tide mark, that dark strip that runs the length of the breakwater in the West End.
When the tide is this low you can easily walk across the tidal flats along the left side of the breakwater all the way out to that little spit of sand that leads out to Long Point, the very tip of Cape Cod. It's a little less strenuous, perhaps, than walking out on the breakwater, where you sometimes end up having to hop from one rock to the next, although you'll use a different set of muscles walking barefoot in the wet sand that squishes up between your toes. It's a good idea to do a few gentle stretches of your legs and feet before and after you take this walk, and again before you go to bed, particularly if you're not used to this sort of walking. And you might want to take a small pail along for interesting shells and other treasures you'll likely find along the way.

PTown Snow Brought Dramatic Photo Ops

A crusty blanket of snow made for tough walking on the Breakwater in Provincetown's Far West End,
but gave us a great photo opportunity while this bit of nature's frozen art work refused to melt. 

While having snow two or three times a week along with bitter cold is definitely an ordeal in many ways, it turns out there were also a few rewards waiting for those who ventured out during these recent trying times. Photographers call it "golden hour"… that time early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the sun is near the horizon, giving a pinkish sort of golden glow to anything in its path.
I happened onto great luck one day in the Far West End when I visited the breakwater on a rare afternoon out of the house and into the bitter cold that afflicted so much of the east coast for a good bit of the month of February. For three weeks or so Provincetown had been having snow storms big and small at least two or three times a week, with both high and low temperatures in the teens and twenties most days. Each time it got warm or sunny enough for the snow to begin to thaw a bit, we plunged back into frigid days and nights, refreezing snow that had begun to soften.
On this particular day the temperature rose a few degrees and I was able to summon the spirit to wedge myself out the door when the winds of 30 miles per hour slowed just a bit.
I made it to the breakwater just in time to shoot this photo before the light changed, just a few minutes later.

Heron Today, Gone Tomorrow?

Herons and other crane-like birds are frequent sightings in the wetlands.

Despite reaching an overnight low temperature of 32 degrees the other night, Provincetown's miraculous autumn weather has rallied again, giving us the chance to continue hikes, bike rides and nature walks in shirtsleeves.
This great blue heron was spotted in the pond along Province Lands Road. These herons seem to be here in larger numbers this year, often being found near this little lagoon, or in the rivulets of water that wind through the marsh near the breakwater. Time spent in these spots is likely to be rewarded with sightings of these stately birds and others, and this weather makes the walk a real pleasure.
It seems like I write something every week recently urging you to get out and enjoy this amazing autumn season before the cold weather sets in, but seriously, how much longer can this perfect weather last?

PTown Indian Summer

Most folks on Provincetown's breakwater this afternoon are fishing as kayakers revel in Indian summer weather.

OK, true "Indian summer" weather usually means the return of summer weather after a killing frost, and we haven't had one of those yet, but I'm going to count it, especially after the overnight low temperature was a chilling 39 degrees two nights in a row last week. I don't know a better way to describe these absolutely gorgeous days we've been having. Get out and enjoy this beautiful weather today, because this may be the last of it, with a pretty good chance of rain tomorrow and daily highs dipping down into the 60s next week. That'll make it more like fishing weather than kayaking weather, but still lovely for hiking, biking and many of the outdoor activities that make Provincetown such a remarkable spot.

More Public Art Appears Near PTown's West End Breakwater

A five-foot-wide sand sculpture appeared next to the breakwater Sunday morning.

Someone created a sand sculpture just to the right of the breakwater in the west end of Provincetown harbor this morning. This photo was taken about two hours before low tide. I wonder if the sculptor continued to work on it after this point? It looks like a mound of sand with a depth of a couple of inches scraped away from the edge in concentric circles, just where the receding water forms a wider circle every 20 minutes or so. But there's a concave wedge carved out of the left end, too. It gives me ideas about ways to use the receding tide to create shapes in the sand. I hope this fleeting piece of public art will inspire others to experiment and create as well.
This bit of art is about 30 yards from environmental artist Roy Staab's reed sculpture on the tidal flats exposed on the right side of the breakwater at low tide. Click the link above to see the photo and read a bit about him in my August 20th post. It's remarkable.
Thanks to all the folks who create something where the public can see it. Watch for upcoming posts about the tremendous variety of public art found in Provincetown, from the Scott Dosch mural in the Whalers Wharf rotunda to Jackson Lambert's "cat crossing" signs on Freeman Street.

The West End Breakwater is One of PTown's Greatest Recreation Areas

Kayaking, picnics and sunbathing are popular activities at the breakwater.

The breakwater in the Far West End is a great spot for all kinds of recreation. You can fish for striped bass off the left side, casting toward the Long Point Lighthouse. You can picnic on the edge of the breakwater, or you can walk out to the lighthouse at Wood End and have a picnic there, along with a swim and a little sunbathing in a spot where you aren't likely to have many people around you. You can practically have your own private beach, especially if you're willing to walk a bit farther once you get out to that little spit of sand across the harbor.
You can launch a kayak or a canoe or an inflatable raft and paddle out to Long Point, the very tip of Cape Cod, where you can also fish, swim, sunbathe and picnic to your heart's content, with hardly anyone around you. Folks I talked to last week rented a kayak and paddled out to the far side of Long point, on the edge of Cape Cod Bay, and found seals all along the beach there.

During a very high tide you can swim through the wetlands.

A lot of people will go swimming off the right side of the breakwater, out into the wetlands if the tide is high enough, or just paddle around within a few feet of the shoreline at the head of the breakwater, never getting more than a few feet from the shoreline. Others will try their hand at snorkeling in this area as well. And as the water recedes as the tide goes out, the tidal flats that are revealed yield shells, bits of sea glass, hermit crabs and all kinds of treasures for beachcombers. Families with small children can be spotted carrying nets and buckets to scoop things out of little tidal pools that form at ebb tide.
You can also catch the shuttle boat to get out to Long Point. The Long Point shuttle leaves MacMillan Pier on the hour all day long in the summertime, and it leaves Flyer's boatyard at 10 minutes past the hour, traveling out to the area near the Long Point Lighthouse and back again several times during the day. There is no dock out there, so you'll take off your shoes, roll up your pants legs and hop off the boat in knee-deep water. You can take beach chairs, a small cooler or whatever else you need for the day, but be considerate of others taking the shuttle, too. Don't expect to take the 80 gallon cooler, the barbecue and a side of beef on the shuttle boat. For that kind of party you want to check into renting or chartering a boat of your own.
With this glorious weather we've had recently, there are dozens of ways to use this area we call the breakwater. A lot of folks will simply take a walk out on this enormous granite barrier that forms a walkway from the land at the west end of Commercial Street out to the spit of sand that stretches into Long Point and the tip of the Cape. However you may choose to use this spot, it is one of Provincetown's greatest recreation areas. Be careful, be safe and have fun!

Hike The West End Breakwater to Wood End Light

Don't forget to check the tide chart before you set out to walk to Wood End Light. It is a fairly strenuous walk of about a mile-and-a-quarter over sometimes rather jagged chunks of granite, in some spots hopping from rock to rock, and then a fair distance walking in soft sand. So you'll need good sturdy shoes. And a water bottle. And a Lunch. And a light jacket at this time of year. And don't forget the sunscreen, because you may be walking for a bit longer than you might think. You might want a camera, too. So now it's turning into quite an expedition. But it'll be worth it. All this gear can fit into a small backpack, and the walk really is beautiful.
Remember, the tide can rise quickly, and it can rise above the average high tide mark, the dark strip you see along the length of the jetty. Best to take your walk on the breakwater as the tide is on its way out, or at least check the tide chart before you head out. It doesn't take long at all for the water to rise a good couple of feet, and it looks to me like we've had some pretty high tides this past week or so. Just be careful, be safe, and you'll have a great walk.
The breakwater is at the far west end of Commercial Street. There's a little bit of parking, or you can bike down, or walk, or take the shuttle bus to the Provincetown Inn. The shuttle starts its full-time summer schedule today. They try to leave the bus plaza near the Chamber of Commerce on the hour and on the half hour. But there are three different routes, so make sure you get on the right bus.
And If you're a fan of lighthouses, you may consider making a contribution to the American Lighthouse Foundation, working for the preservation of lighthouses around the country. You can also make a sizable, ongoing contribution to the foundation without ever writing a check. When you get this Capital One VISA card, the ALF will receive a $50 donation after your first purchase, plus a percentage of every purchase you make with the card.
Enjoy your hike out to Wood End Light, and watch for upcoming posts about the three lighthouses surrounding Provincetown.