Portuguese Festival Celebrates Provincetown's Heritage

Artist Nancy Whorf painted this scene of our annual Portuguese Festival.

The 2015 Provincetown Portuguese Festival is underway, bringing folks from far and wide to PTown to celebrate our Portuguese Heritage. Many of our early sailors and fishermen came from Portugal and the Azores to work in our fishing fleet, and eventually brought their families to live here as well. Many went on to become captains of their own fishing vessels, or became entrepreneurs as they started operating bakeries, restaurants and many other businesses of their own.
In the painting above, Provincetown artist Nancy Whorf portrays people on the pier dressed in typical Portuguese costumes, along with a marching band, and fishing boats decorated for the annual Blessing of the Fleet. Click on the link above to get this year's schedule of events, running through Sunday night.

The rooster is a Portuguese symbol of good luck.

The Portuguese rooster symbolizes good luck, and will no doubt be found in this afternoon's parade, scheduled to begin in the Far East End, at the Harbor Hotel, at 3 PM. The procession will travel the length of Commercial Street, through the center of Provincetown, ending at Franklin Street in the West End.

Portuguese dancers, in costume, perform along the parade route.

Portuguese dance troupes will march in this annual parade, performing along the way, and will be found at various times dancing in "Portuguese Square" as Ryder Street, next to Town Hall, is transformed into an outdoor theater and stage during the festival.

This couple, visiting from New Haven, Connecticut, enjoys a great meal
of Portuguese favorites, under the tent top at the Bas-Relief park.

Of course, tasting Portuguese food is a big part of the festival every year. A huge tent top is erected at the Bas-Relief park behind Town Hall, with traditional foods like Portuguese rice and linguica rolls being served, along with other favorites like porco, which is pork marinated in wine, herbs and spices, and cooked on charcoal grills set up here for the occasion. Sunday's schedule includes an outdoor cafe set up near the far end of MacMillan pier.
Entertainment during the festival includes music from many bands performing near Town Hall, dance, comedy, an old-fashioned band concert, and traditional Fado singers, performing songs of Portuguese fishermen and others.
Check the schedule and get out and enjoy our annual Portuguese Festival. Many of the events are free.

PTown Portuguese Festival 2014 is a Hit

Squid stew and porco were popular dishes at the Lions
food court during PTown's annual Portuguese Festival.

Provincetown's annual Portuguese Festival is in full swing, with many Portuguese dancers in costume on the streets, entertainment on Ryder Street (always renamed Portuguese Square during the festival,) the parade all along Commercial Street this afternoon, and Portuguese food galore at the Bas Relief park behind Town Hall.
I went to the big white food court tent myself this afternoon, where the local Lions club was running the restaurant for the day, and I had the spicy, really tasty squid stew, along with the porco. That's thin sliced pork steaks marinated in vinegar and spices and piled high on a Portuguese roll.
I hung around and talked to a few people as they came and went, and then stayed for the afternoon's entertainment, The Portuguese Kids, a well-known comedy sketch troupe that is a crowd favorite, speaking in mixed Portuguese and English, with Portuguese music interspersed between sketches. The troupe played to an enthusiastic audience both young and old, with even kids singing along in the Portuguese language. It seemed to be a crowd of people who had come from all over New England, most of them speaking Portuguese as they greeted each other.

Chourico with peppers and onions was served with Portuguese
rice once the buns ran out. Cold drinks also sold out.

I stayed long enough to be hungry again, so I ordered the chourico (say choo•ree•so, or shur•rees, depending upon how Portuguese you're feeling.) It was grilled with onions and peppers and had been served on Portuguese rolls all afternoon, but by the time I got some they had run out of buns, so they were serving it with a side of Portuguese rice, which was fine by me. They had had such a busy day that they eventually ran low on other food items as well as sodas and water, although the beer and wine supply held out a little while longer.
It was a nice afternoon of food and entertainment as I became an honorary member of Provinctown's Portuguese community, as I do every year at this time, even if only for a few days during the festival.
Get the Portuguese Festival schedule online, or stop by the booth at the corner of Ryder and Commercial Streets, because there's still more to enjoy tomorrow, like the Blessing of the Fleet, and the band concert, and more Portuguese food down on the pier. Get out and enjoy this last day of the festival. See you there.

Red Shack's Stuffed Clam is a 'Best Bite'

The Red Shack's gigantic baked stuffed clam is the best I've found in PTown.

When I heard that Mylan and Pamela had sold The Red Shack, my heart dropped perceptibly. But it perked right back up again when I learned that the new owner wasn't some out-of-town rich guy swooping in for a quick buck, but a local man who's been here for years, and working hard all the while, who's finally gotten the chance to own and operate a business of his own.
Scott Munson bought the business, and he's been working alongside Mylan to learn the secrets of The Red Shack's recipes. Mylan, a hometown boy who was a personal chef and cooked for various country clubs in California before returning to Provincetown, is happy to pass his knowledge on to Scott.

Scott and his ever-present skateboard in Lopes Square.

We're happy, too. I stopped in last week for my favorite dish there, the enormous baked stuffed clam, and it was as good as ever; full of tender clams, linguica and chourico, and a nice bread stuffing with a little spice to it… I went back again for another one a few days later.
Having tried nearly every stuffed clam in all of Provincetown, I name this humble Portuguese peasant dish, served up in style by The Red Shack, as my first Best Bite of the season, and talking with a friend the other day, neither of us could think of a better one we'd ever had. If you have a different nomination, please let me know. I'm always happy to find, and taste, something new.
If you don't know The Red Shack, it's at Lopes Square, across from the Chamber of Commerce and John's Footlong (also a recipient of TheYearRounder's Best Bite award for their lobster roll,) near the corner of Commercial and Ryder Streets. In the height of the summer season The Red Shack makes breakfast, lunch and supper, with a wide and varied menu of seafood, burgers, sandwiches, pizza, and lobster rolls served 6 different ways.
Stop in, try the stuffed clam, or dozens of other choices, like their homemade lemonade, and wish Scott good luck in his new endeavor. Call ahead, at 508 487-7422, and he'll have your order ready for pickup.

Get it While You Can...

As the little casual dining spots in Provincetown get ready to shut down for the season, I'm making the rounds to enjoy some of the great food and bargain prices that we'll miss over the winter...

Mojo's grilled swordfish platter with mixed vegetables, salad and their signature round fries. Mojo's has a HUGE menu with some of the best prices in town.

The Red Shack lobster mac & cheese became a new favorite when I tasted it this summer. I'll miss their gyro, pastrami, sausage and peppers, and their giant breakfast wrap with a whole meal rolled inside.

Provincetown Portuguese Bakery has the best fried dough in town, hands down. Breakfast and lunch from their grill are bargains, as are dozens of sweet or savory pastries and traditional Portuguese treats.

John's Footlong fish sandwich is among the best in town, along with their fried clams, kale soup, scallop roll and oooohh, the lobster roll. And don't forget the footlong hot dog in a grilled bun.

Lewis Brothers Ice Cream is the last real, homemade American ice cream in Provincetown, despite the "homemade" signs you might see in other windows. It's not. The brothers make it right there in their shop, churning out several flavors every day. I love their small sundae. I'm not sure I could finish the big one.

Native Cape Cod Seafood is one of the spots I miss most over the winter. Everything they make is absolutely fresh, delicious and reasonably priced. You could throw a dart and be happy with anything on the menu. I order an ear of corn with my linguine and clams. And the lobster scampi rivals any in town, at a great price.

Blondie's portobello mushroom burger comes with caramelized onions, roasted red peppers and feta cheese, and it's one of my favorite vegetarian meals in Provincetown.

Uma Loucura brought Brazilian flavors to town this summer with daily specials like Bobo De Camarao, made with yucca, peppers, fresh tomato, coconut milk and a mountain of shrimp. Everything is made from scratch, and I loved everything I tasted there.

The Canteen brought great seafood, sandwiches, homemade linguica and a variety of ethnic flavors to Provincetown this summer. Their homemade sodas, and the return of Pucci Wings, were highlights of my summer. I'm jonesing for them already.

I Dream of Gelato makes more than 200 flavors of the best homemade gelato (the Italian version of ice cream) you're ever likely to taste, from simple fruit flavors to gourmet delights. My very favorites are the pineapple basil and the black sesame.

The Coffee Pot has a line of people every morning getting their coffee, fresh baked goods and an array of great breakfast sandwiches. When I'm really famished I'll order the Rescue Squad, with three eggs, three slices of bacon, two sausage patties and double cheese on a sub roll.

ScottCakes are the best cupcakes in the world, period. This fluffy vanilla cupcake topped with that distinctive swirl of pink buttercream frosting is one of the greatest sweet treats ever invented.

Get out and enjoy some of these great PTown eats before these little joints fold up for the season.

Provincetown's 2013 Portuguese Festival is a Big Hit Despite a Bit of Rain

Giant puppets loom above the heads
of the crowds gathering for the parade
on Commercial Street.

Provincetown's 2013 Portuguese Festival is underway, and a roaring success, as usual, despite threatening weather. I've met people from far and wide who have come for this wonderful annual event; some of them are participating as members of marching bands, comedy troupes, or musical groups performing on stage at Portuguese Square on Ryder Street or under the big tent that takes up most of the little park in front of the Bas Relief plaque on Bradford Street, across from Town Hall. Many are here with Portuguese dance troupes that come every year from all over the New England area and beyond to perform on the streets and in the festival parade, held yesterday afternoon on Commercial Street despite looming rain clouds.
Thousands of others come to enjoy these events along with all the Portuguese food, parties, entertainment, kids events, and other festivities to be found all over town during the festival, which continues through this evening. There are still many events to be enjoyed today, including food and entertainment in various spots around the town. Click here for Portuguese Festival schedule.

Young Portuguese dancers perform in a few drops of rain.

Dancers perform at Portuguese Square, even with occasional rain drops, and a large crowd of spectators gathers as several groups perform on the street.
As the rain tapered off, people took their places all along Commercial Street to watch the parade, with the sun breaking through the clouds shortly before the parade reached the center of town, with dancers and bands performing near Town Hall and in other spots all along the parade route.

The rooster is a Portuguese symbol, found in the parade.

Todays events will include the Fishermen's Mass, the procession to the pier, and the 66th Blessing of the Fleet. Food will be found on the pier, there will be a band concert, and there are many other events to enjoy throughout the day. Click the link above to find the schedule or stop by the festival information booth at the corner of Ryder and Commercial Streets. Look for a bright yellow little structure decorated with a little red and green, and Portuguese flags. Buy souvenir T-shirts there to support the festival.

Folks from Connecticut enjoy some Portuguese food.

These folks didn't know they were arriving right in the middle of Provincetown's annual Portuguese Festival. They are from New Haven, Connecticut, and just happened into town on a visit to the tip of Cape Cod.
They found the food tent, and enjoyed a meal of  Chouriço, porco, and Portuguese rice. Be sure and wander down to the pier yourself today and enjoy the Blessing of the Fleet, dancers in costume, music, and of course, wonderful Portuguese food. Visit the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum for a special exhibit on the  Provincetown fishing fleet of days gone by. There's a band concert at Town Hall at 4 PM and many other events, and nearly every event is free.
Happy Portuguese Festival!

Lobster Pot Reopening is a Sure Sign of Spring in Provincetown

The Lobster Pot is now open for the season

Townies and visitors alike are rejoicing as the Lobster Pot, at 321 Commercial Street, opens its doors for the 2013 season. It's one of the most popular restaurants in town, right on the beach at the edge of Provincetown Harbor, so the view is fantastic.
Hours at this time of year are 11:30 AM till about 9 PM. Like most PTown restaurants in the spring and autumn seasons, things here may be a tiny bit different than they are at the height of the summer season. They have such a large menu of seafood, steaks, salads, Portuguese specialties and vegetarian choices that they may not be serving absolutely everything on the menu just yet, but you'll find plenty of great choices, and you should find a current menu posted on the front of the building and also in the west window.
Look for "local favorites" marked with a special symbol on the menu. Among my favorites, look for the Pork and Clams Osso Buco, a Portuguese specialty named as a Best Bite by TheYearRounder. The sautéed squid appetizer is another of my Lobster Pot favorites, marked on the menu as a local favorite as well.
Read my post from September 9th, 2012 about Portuguese food and its long heritage in Provincetown, and then taste some of the best in town at "The Pot." Rob Costa has a favorite here, too. He runs Art's Dune Tours, which is right around the corner from the Lobster Pot, at 4 Standish Street. The dune tours began running tours for the season yesterday, by the way. Anyway, Rob will tell you his favorite dish here is the Portuguese Fish, which is native cod on top of a seafood stuffing with a crusty coating made with linguica (say lean•gwee•suh, a delicious Portuguese sausage) baked with tomatoes and onions and served with orzo pasta.
Of course, you'll find lobster here as well, ranging from the lobster bisque to lobster ravioli, served in a parmesan cream sauce with a Panko-parmesan crust, and this spot has a dozen other ways for you to enjoy this most famous crustacean. If you're feeling adventurous, try the full-blown Clam Bake. That's a whole lobster served New England style, with your choice of soups, along with salad, homemade breads, steamed mussels, red bliss potatoes and corn-on-the-cob.
Try Tim's famous clam chowder, winner of 18 awards on Cape Cod and in Boston, and chosen by TheYearRounder as another Best Bite. Have a cup or a bowl with your meal, or have it served baked in a bread bowl. Try to save a little bit of room for dessert, though, because there are many choices, and they are are all made fresh in the Lobster Pot's own kitchen. We welcome them back for the summer season.

Before it's Over... One More Dinner at the Mayflower Cafe

8 ounces of broiled bluefish, choice of potato, dinner roll and salad is just $14

Before the season is really over, try to make one last visit to some of the seasonal restaurants that are favorites, for various reasons, of Townies and visitors alike. One of these spots is the Mayflower Cafe, at 300 Commercial Street. Opened in 1929, the Mayflower has been serving simple, home style food for 83 years; no frills, diner style food at reasonable prices, and served in generous portions, like the 8 ounce bluefish fillet for $14, pictured above.
I went to the Mayflower the other night because I was in the mood for steamers, which I followed with that evening's salmon dinner special. For dessert I had the homemade pumpkin pie with whipped cream for $3.50. The menu also includes hot and cold sandwiches, pizza and Italian style specialties, comfort foods, seafood, and a number of Portuguese specialties. See my blog post from September 22nd, about Portuguese Food at the Mayflower Cafe.
Try to get to the Mayflower and enjoy one of PTown's landmarks by Saturday, October 27th, their last day for the season.

Portuguese Food at the Mayflower Cafe

Our quest for Portuguese food in Provincetown leads us this week to the Mayflower Cafe, a family operated business run by various members of the Janoplis family over the last 83 years, who built this restaurant at 300 Commercial Street in 1929. It's not a fancy place by any means, but is a favorite of locals for fresh food simply prepared, reasonable prices, and a number of Portuguese specialties on the menu. it's a great spot for folks traveling on a budget, and the large booths are perfect for families, with room to easily seat six adults or a family with a number of children of various sizes.
I often like to start out with a baked stuffed clam; priced at $4.99, which is a large sea clam shell mounded with a bread stuffing mixed with chopped clams and linguica (say lean-gwee-suh, a mildly spicy Portuguese sausage made with pork) and baked in the oven. It's served with a wedge of lemon to squeeze over the top, and many folks will drizzle a little hot sauce over the top of this tasty appetizer. There's also a Portuguese kale soup, packed with vitamins from the green leafy chopped kale, with potatoes and red kidney beans in a broth flavored with, what else...? More linguica.
The Pork Chops Vinho de Alhos are a favorite entree, translating into English as "pork chops with wine and garlic." Center cut pork chops are marinated in wine, garlic, spices and a bit of vinegar before they go onto the grill, and are served with a small garden salad, a dinner roll and your choice of French fries, mashed or baked potato. These have a different flavor from other pork chops you've known, and are quite tasty, and a good value at $16.99.
Another specialty here is the Portuguese Fish and Chips. That's flounder battered and deep-fried, sauced with a mixture of vinegar, oil, garlic and spices, and served with French fries and coleslaw. This dish also carries the reasonable price tag of $16.99.
Stroll over to the Mayflower, with the big black-and-white striped awning out front, and try some of Provincetown's oldest recipes, brought here by the families of many of the early Portuguese sailors and fishermen, who were pretty much the backbone of Provincetown's early fishing community. There are other Portuguese specialties here as well, so give them a try. Bom apetite!

We're on a Search for Portuguese Specialties in Provincetown Restaurants

Provincetown has a tremendous Portuguese heritage, with many of the early sailors and fishermen here having been recruited by Yankee sea captains who sailed to Portugal and the Azores in search of skilled crews willing to leave their homeland, and often their families, to fish in the rich waters off the shores of North America. They worked very hard in the early fishing industry, often spending months at sea, fishing the Grand Banks off the southeast shores of Newfoundland. There the cold waters of the Labrador Current merged with the warmer waters of the Gulf Stream in relatively shallow depths, creating an upwelling of nutrients that turned these waters into some of the world's richest fishing grounds. Cod were found in great abundance, along with haddock and swordfish, making some of those captains quite wealthy, and after several seasons many of the Portuguese fishermen they employed had saved up enough money to send for their families to come and live in Provincetown.
One of the strongest links to this Portuguese heritage is the foods that were served in the homes of those early fishermen, often humble peasant dishes from recipes handed down by their ancestors; simple foods that evoked the flavors of their homeland. Over the next several weeks this blog will take us around the town to a number of restaurants where we'll find dishes based on those recipes and flavors. We'll start at the Lobster Pot with their Pork and Clams Osso Bucco, one of my all-time favorite meals.

A pork shank or two are chopped into manageable chunks that will fit in the pot, where it's slowly simmered in fish and veal stocks, along with linguica (say leen-gwee-suh; a mildly spicy Portuguese sausage,) tomatoes, onions and a few mushrooms. In the last few minutes of cooking, littleneck clams are dropped into the pot, and when they open, their liquor adds another dimension of flavor to this wonderful stew, which is then poured over a bowl of hearty Sardinian cous cous and garnished with a sprig of fresh herbs. Every Portuguese family has at least a couple of recipes that combine pork with clams, perhaps because these were fairly inexpensive sources of protein, readily available, not to mention that they taste so good together. In fact, this dish is a YearRounder's Best Bite.
This is such a substantial dish that I've never finished it in the restaurant, but have always taken some home with me for another meal. It's served with a good sized salad of mixed greens and the Lobster Pot's homemade salad dressings, along with a bread basket that always includes a bit of their wonderful pumpkin bread. Of course, part of the reason I save some of this dinner for another day is to make sure that I have room for dessert, because there are many choices at The Pot, and all are homemade. Enjoy!