Saturday, June 30, 2012

This Week's Best Bite - Patio's Scallops

Of the two dozen meals I had all around the town this past week, the best thing I ate anywhere was the scallops at Patio, hands down. This dish was the special that day, and I hope to find it on the menu again sometime. Each day Patio features the freshest, the most beautiful, the most succulent... whatever is the very best seafood, meat, poultry, vegetables or herbs that become available each day will inspire chef Crittendon Bliss to create a new dish to offer along with the varied choices of his regular menu. When owner Joachim Sandbichler, fishing on a rare day off last summer, landed a beautiful Striped Bass, it became a special on the menu that evening, just hours out of the water.
This night I was wanting something vegetarian but I couldn't resist ordering the special once I heard the waiter describe it: pan seared PTown scallops, Baby Gem Lettuce (kind of a cross between Romaine and Buttercup) sautéed with bacon and shallots. The pan must have been smokin' hot when the scallops went in because they got a nice, crusty caramelization but stayed perfectly tender and succulent inside. The Pan was deglazed with a sherry-tomato-caper vinaigrette, and the dish was finished with a Lemon Beurre Blanc drizzled on the plate. This was the most miraculous combination of flavors and textures I tasted this past week. The tender sweetness of the scallops paired with the very slight bitterness of the lettuce, which has a firm texture a bit like flawlessly cooked leaves of Brussels Sprouts, was a stellar combination, and when you add in a bit of acidity from the vinaigrette along with the velvety creaminess of the Beurre Blanc, this dish was perfection on a plate.
By the way, Patio's wine list will take you from Austria to South Africa, and from California's Napa Valley to the Loire Valley in France. There are bottles from Italy, Spain, Chile, and Australia, and three sparkling wines, with a dozen wines also available by the glass. Patio offers more than two dozen signature Mojitos and specialty cocktails, like the White Peach or the Black Raspberry, two of my favorite Mojitos. Try the Chili Passionfruit Martini. That's Skyy vodka with the flavors of passion fruit, orange juice and cranberry with a few flakes of chili pepper, and it's really, really good. Since I had already decided not to drink this particular night, I had a mocktail instead. I had the Wild Passions, made with passion fruit, of course, and lemon, lime, cranberry and a splash of soda, served with a fruit garnish; all the fun of a cocktail but without the booze.
Desserts are all made in-house and have been known to include classic favorites like Strawberry Shortcake, Key Lime Pie, Tiramisu, Creme Brûlée and many others. Check for nightly selections at the whim of the chef.
So if you haven't tried Patio, it's high time; this is their eighth season. The YearRounder names this wonderful scallop dish as a Best Bite.
You'll find Patio at 328 Commercial Street. You can't miss it. It's the big open-air patio next to the old Public Library at the corner of Freeman Street. Reservations are accepted. Phone Patio at 508 487-4003.

Friday, June 29, 2012

No Butts, please

Please, folks, it's a wooden town. Don't throw your cigarette butts on the ground. Besides uglying up the place, the dangers are real. All that has to happen is that a little bit of wind comes up and blows your lit cigarette butt up under the corner of one of these old wooden buildings, and we're done for. And when was the last day that there wasn't any wind in this town?
People look around and try to find a place to put out a cigarette, and sometimes they decide to toss it into the storm drain, thinking it'll be out of sight and on its way to some magical place where it will disappear. I think their hearts are in the right place, but they don't realize that everything that goes down the storm drain ends up down on the beach at the edge of the harbor. Storm run-off from the streets, and anything else that gets into these drains, washes down through a big pipe that empties out onto the beach just off of Commercial Street. The drains were designed to carry water from rainstorms harmlessly down to the beach and out into the sea, so please don't toss anything into the drains, and look for a proper place to dispose of your butts. And remember, a lit cigarette dropped on the street actually can burn down the town.

Thursday, June 28, 2012

"Trees For Town" Jars and Cans Brighten Provincetown

For something over twenty years now, outspoken resident and tree advocate Barbara Rushmore has been planting trees all over town by collecting coins in containers like this one, in front of Spiritus Pizza, and then buying and planting young trees with the money raised.
In several spots around town people can drop their spare change into a big old milk can on the street, or into jars found on the counters of a number of local merchants.
Barbara then makes her rounds, collecting the coins at each location, rolls the coins to take them to the bank, orders the young trees, and co-ordinates the efforts of volunteers and Department of Public Works staff to get these trees planted in spots all around Provincetown.
If you've ever admired the cherry trees on Harry Kemp Way, near the parking meters there, or the Pin Oaks at the Chamber of Commerce, or the Elm where Bradford and Commercial Streets meet, you've seen the fruits of Barbara's labors. A tree Barbara planted many years ago near the mailbox at the East End Marketplace, as it is now known, has since grown to a height of over two stories, and the total of trees planted is now approaching a hundred.
In fact, I first met Barbara about 22 years ago when I reported to the Municipal Parking Lot at the head of MacMillan Pier in response to a blurb in The Advocate, the town's newspaper at the time. Volunteers had been requested to help plant trees in the southeast corner of the parking lot. This was long before the little mini-park along the sea wall between the two piers came about, so there weren't many trees nearby. These were the days when Barbara would drive her old red Ford Escort hatchback around town to the various spots where she had planted trees on public land, watering every one with buckets of water she dipped out of a huge barrel in the back of her car, stopping here and there to replenish the barrel, using garden hoses of folks who had offered water for the project. In fact, she ruined the springs on her car carrying all that water around the town for so many years.
Now, the DPW has taken over the job of watering all the trees planted on public property, while homeowners look after those planted in their front yards over the years. Barbara will plant trees in yards of residents here, or in other privately owned space, as long as the tree will shade a public way, like a street or a sidewalk, or even a parking lot. When a very old tree at Bradford and Court Streets met its demise after suffering through a number of heavy storms, the neighborhood mourned the loss of this tree, and Barbara arranged to help to get another tree planted in that yard, where the new tree once again cools the heat of the summer by shading a public way. Trees also help convert carbon dioxide from vehicle emissions, as well as other air polluters, into oxygen, so Barbara's efforts over the years help all of us to breathe easier.
So when you pass one of these various coin jars or cans, throw in a handful of change, and of course, paper money is welcome as well. It will be put to good use. These jars raise a total every year of about a thousand dollars, and over the last twenty years or so, the town has enjoyed a tremendous benefit from the planting of so many trees we would not have if it hadn't been for Barbara's labor of love. And we thank the many volunteers and DPW workers who have helped to plant nearly a hundred trees over the years.
You'll find these various types of containers in many spots provided by a number of merchants all over town, like the big coin box in front of Bubala's, the milk can near Blondie's, and the counter-top jars at Shalom and other T shirt shops, the Himalayian shop, Seamen's Bank and others. Drop your change and contributions into these containers and feel good about helping to improve the look, the ambience and the air quality of Provincetown through planting trees. And, of course, volunteers are always welcome.

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Provincetown Portuguese Festival 2012

Commercial Street was packed this afternoon with Portuguese dancers, band members and others as well as parade watchers, all making their way along the street following the parade on this third day of Provincetown's annual Portuguese Festival.
Although there had been Portuguese sailors fishing these waters as early as the fifteen hundreds, they actually began settling in Provincetown in sizable numbers around the year 1840 or so. A number of sea captains from this area began sailing to Portugal and the Azores in search of skilled fishermen and ready sailors who were willing to leave their families behind as they set out to sea for many months at a time, or longer. A number of those fishermen settled in Provincetown, working very hard to eventually save up enough money to be able to send for their families to come and live here as well. The Portuguese were pretty much the backbone of the early fishing community here, while the Yankees growing up in Provincetown tended more often to become whalers rather than fishermen. Thus entered the golden age of sail here at the tip of Cape Cod, with the middle to late eighteen hundreds seeing some 700 fishing and whaling vessels in these waters, all of them outfitted and supplied here in Provincetown. Come and join us in celebrating Provincetown's tremendous Portuguese heritage. There are still events to come in this year's festival, so don't miss out.
The 65th Blessing of the Fleet will be held Sunday, beginning with the special Fishermen's Mass at Saint Peter's Church, on Prince Street, at 10:30 AM. It will be followed by the procession from the church to MacMillan Pier from approximately noon to 1:00 PM. The actual Blessing of the Fleet is scheduled for 1:00 PM at the far end of MacMillan Pier. The blessing is a wonderful tradition of the Provincetown Portuguese Festival where boats from miles around, and even you and I in our little rowboats, canoes and kayaks, can join in the procession of the boats that will pass by the end of the pier as each vessel is blessed by the priest for safety on the water and a bountiful fishing season.
Also at noon, there will be entertainment on the pier featuring Rancho Folclorico Corações Lusíadas, who will be performing traditional Portuguese dances in costume. The link above leads to a YouTube video of their performance on the pier at last year's festival, posted by  stagnes06. There will also be food offered on the pier from noon to 4:00 PM at the Tasca do Pescador, or Portuguese Cafe, set up for the occasion. Food at this event often includes linguica rolls (say leen-gwee-suh) which consists of a slightly spicy Portuguese sausage, grilled over an open flame and served on a bun with mustard. This is one of the great treats of the festival. And don't miss the band concert scheduled from 4 to 6 PM at Town Hall, featuring Saint Anthony's Band from Cambridge, Massachusetts. And if you missed today's parade, here's a photo recap of some of the participants:
One of several marching bands
There were a number of dance troupes performing in the parade
Smokey the Bear made an appearance
Dancers came in all sizes
Portuguese flags decorated the float that carried this band
An antique fire truck was a hit
It's not a parade without the Town Crier
A Scottish bagpipe band joined us
Looking over the awning at the Waterford Inn, more traditional costumes
Another marching band
Kids got to ride in the town's fire trucks
A band with dancers

Come and join us in the rest of the celebration, and put this event on your calendar for next year, the third week in June.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

This Weeks Hot Ticket - Portuguese Fest Clam Feed

Plump Steamers and all the trimmings are always part of the
all-you-can-eat Clam Feed, one of the most popular events each year
at the annual Provincetown Portuguese Festival

Its the third week in June, and that means it's time for Provincetown's annual Portuguese Festival, with its music, dancing, a parade on Commercial Street, and of course, plenty of Portuguese food. One of the most anticipated events at this yearly celebration is always the Clam Feed, where volunteers serve up one bushel after another of succulent littlenecks, steamers, quahogs and sea clams, prepared in every way you can think of. The photo above is a plate of steamers I had at last year's festival, served in the traditional way with broth for rinsing, butter for dipping, lemon for squeezing, along with plenty of buttered corn-on-the-cob and fresh bread. The cups behind the plate held a traditional New England style creamy clam chowder and a robust sea clam chili, made with a spicy tomato base.
Elsewhere on the menu were heaping trays of littlenecks on the half-shell, stuffed quahogs (say KO-hogs) which are large hard-shelled clams chopped up into a bread stuffing with garlic, onion, peppers, celery,  and a slightly spicy Portuguese sausage called linguica (say leen-gwee-suh) and baked in the oven, usually mounded into the big shells left after the clams are shucked. There will likely also be some version of a cataplana, a sort of stew made with littlenecks, aromatics, and of course, more linguica. Admission for this event is usually around twenty bucks or so, and a real bargain for unlimited helpings of anything and everything served. 
The Clam Feed will be held Friday from 5 to 8 PM at the Bas Relief, which is kind of P'Town shorthand for the little neighborhood park on Bradford Street, behind Town Hall, where you'll find a large bas-relief plaque depicting the signing of the Mayflower Compact in 1620. The plaque will be somewhat obstructed but still accessible behind the huge white tent tops set up for the duration of the festival. This enclosure will take up most of this little park, and it  will also be the site for tonight's opening party and for the Portuguese Soup Tasting from noon to 3 PM on Friday, as well as the Lion's Club"s Portuguese Food Court on Saturday from 11:30 AM to 7:30 PM. Attend these events as early as you can, because even though they plan to serve the masses, sometimes they run a little low on certain items toward the end.
Get out and enjoy some of the events scheduled for the festival, like the parade on Commercial Street on Saturday at 3 PM, and the 65th Blessing of the Fleet on MacMillan Pier at 1 PM on Sunday. There will be a fishing derby for kids on Friday, puppets and face painting, music, Portuguese dancers in costume performing on the streets, a band concert and all kinds of entertainment through Sunday, and many of these events are free. The Fado Concert is always a highlight of the festival, held this year at Town Hall on Saturday at 7:30 PM. 
Happy Portuguese Festival, everyone. Obrigado!

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Red Eye Coffee Reborn

Red Eye Coffee, 258 Commercial Street, next to Town Hall, did some serious remodeling over the off-season and has been reborn as a great little eatery. Doubling the size of the kitchen pushed the counter up to the front of the shop, so, unfortunately we lose the space for tables indoors, but there is still outdoor seating, and the food they are now able to turn out is terrific.
They're making blueberry scones, fresh fruit cups, and egg sandwiches for your breakfast, just to name a few. Today there was a mango blueberry turnover. Selection varies from day to day on the whim of the chef.There's also a homemade granola and yogurt cup in the cold case, ready to grab and go, along with a variety of salads also ready to take out as you head toward the beach or dash off to go to work.
Sweets include several varieties of cupcakes, like the red velvet one with cream cheese frosting, and maybe a few chocolate chips sprinkled on top. Besides their beautiful cupcakes, often done up in colorful decorations for special occasions like Bear Week, they make a great individual cheesecake, a bit less sweet than most I've had, and very good. And now that the kitchen has been expanded they can make all kinds of things they had no space or equipment for before. Recently they had a turnover stuffed with ham and your choice of Swiss or cheddar cheese. 
Any number of coffee beverages are available, both hot and cold.  For me, the difference between the many types of coffee drinks the world knows has always been a bit confusing.  I found a web page that explains 63 different cups of coffee. The Red Eye makes a nice, beefy cup of coffee. They'll make you an espresso, a cappuccino (a shot of espresso with hot milk and steamed milk foam) or a latte (same ingredients as a cappuccino but with more milk) or, of course, you can order a Red Eye. That's a brewed cup of coffee with a shot of espresso. You can also get an iced coffee or chai tea. And their coffee beans are organic, fair traded beans, so the farmers earn a fair profit on the crops they grow.
The new kitchen gives Jeremy the space for all the appliances and paraphernalia needed to turn out a variety of pastries both sweet and savory. My favorite so far is the spinach pie, which I had for lunch yeaterday, made of spinach with ricotta and feta cheeses baked between layers of flaky, golden filo dough. It was one of the best things I tasted all week. 

Saturday, June 16, 2012

Hike The West End Breakwater to Wood End Light

Don't forget to check the tide chart before you set out to walk to Wood End Light. It is a fairly strenuous walk of about a mile-and-a-quarter over sometimes rather jagged chunks of granite, in some spots hopping from rock to rock, and then a fair distance walking in soft sand. So you'll need good sturdy shoes. And a water bottle. And a Lunch. And a light jacket at this time of year. And don't forget the sunscreen, because you may be walking for a bit longer than you might think. You might want a camera, too. So now it's turning into quite an expedition. But it'll be worth it. All this gear can fit into a small backpack, and the walk really is beautiful.
Remember, the tide can rise quickly, and it can rise above the average high tide mark, the dark strip you see along the length of the jetty. Best to take your walk on the breakwater as the tide is on its way out, or at least check the tide chart before you head out. It doesn't take long at all for the water to rise a good couple of feet, and it looks to me like we've had some pretty high tides this past week or so. Just be careful, be safe, and you'll have a great walk.
The breakwater is at the far west end of Commercial Street. There's a little bit of parking, or you can bike down, or walk, or take the shuttle bus to the Provincetown Inn. The shuttle starts its full-time summer schedule today. They try to leave the bus plaza near the Chamber of Commerce on the hour and on the half hour. But there are three different routes, so make sure you get on the right bus.
And If you're a fan of lighthouses, you may consider making a contribution to the American Lighthouse Foundation, working for the preservation of lighthouses around the country. You can also make a sizable, ongoing contribution to the foundation without ever writing a check. When you get this Capital One VISA card, the ALF will receive a $50 donation after your first purchase, plus a percentage of every purchase you make with the card.
Enjoy your hike out to Wood End Light, and watch for upcoming posts about the three lighthouses surrounding Provincetown.

This Week's Hot Ticket - PIFF

Seeing two women carrying gigantic film reels down Commercial Street is a sure sign that the Provincetown International Film Festival is underway, and this terrific annual Provincetown event is this week's Hot Ticket. It happens in the middle of June every year, so put it on you calendar for next year now, so you can clear as much time as possible to devote to seeing movies, talking with filmmakers, attending events, and rubbing elbows with directors, producers, actors, and with film buffs from far and wide. 
We're smack in the middle of the 14th annual Provincetown International Film Festival, running this year from June 13th-17th, so you still have time to see movies, attend parties, and hear this year's honorees talk about their films, their careers, and whatever topics come up at the Conversations With Honorees event, which is always the most popular special event of the festival. It takes place in Town Hall, at 260 commercial Street, at 5:00 PM tonight, Saturday, June 16th. For tickets go to the box office, which is sharing space with the Crown and Anchor box office at 241 Commercial Street.
This year's Filmmaker on the Edge honoree, producer/director Roger Corman (director of HOUSE OF USHER, PIT AND THE PENDULUM, LITTLE SHOP OF HORRORS and 50 others, and producer of 401 films ) was honored with the 2009 Academy Award for Lifetime Achievement. He will be interviewed by John Waters, legendary director of PINK FLAMINGOS, FEMALE TROUBLE, SERIAL MOM and many other off-the-wall films. and the first-ever PIFF Filmmaker on the Edge honoree back in 1999, the first year of the festival.
Indy film queen Parker Posey (DAZED AND CONFUSED, PARTY GIRL, BASQUIAT, CLOCKWATCHERS, and my personal favorite, WAITING FOR GUFFMAN, among many others) is this year's Excellence in Acting honoree. Indy actor/director Craig Chester (KISS ME GUIDO, I SHOT ANDY WARHOL, ADAM AND STEVE) will interview her.
Documentary filmmaker Kirby Dick (OUTRAGE, TWIST OF FAITH, DERRIDA, SICK: THE LIFE AND DEATH OF BOB FLANAGAN, SUPERMASOCHIST) receives this year's Faith Hubley Career Achievement Award. Director Mary Harron (I SHOT ANDY WARHOL, THE NOTORIOUS BETTIE PAGE, AMERICAN PSYCHO, THE MOTH DIARIES) will conduct this interview. Dick is Emmy and Academy Award-nominated, and has won Sundance, San Fransisco and Los Angeles Film Festival awards. His new film, THE INVISIBLE WAR, a stunning investigation of the staggering number of rapes committed within the US military and the government cover-up of these crimes, can be seen Sunday at noon at the Schoolhouse, 494 Commercial Street. This film won the Audience Award at the 2012 Sundance Film Festival.
Each of theses honorees has two films in the festival. The Awards for these three PIFF honorees are sponsored by the Coolidge Corner Theater Foundation, American Express, and the MALLRD Foundation, respectively. We thank them for their support. 
There are films scheduled all day long on Saturday and Sunday, and the HBO Audience Awards and the Closing Party are also still to come, so pick up a schedule at the box office or at many other locations around town, or go to, or click this link to the 2012 PIFF Schedule. And keep an eye out for filmmakers walking the streets.
During last year's festival. I found myself on the back deck at Waydowntown looking out over the beach and the harbor, having lunch with a friend, and sitting at the table next to ours was Kathleen Turner (WAR OF THE ROSES, THE VIRGIN SUICIDES, SERIAL MOM) who was in town for the festival. Her film THE PERFECT FAMILY, by Anne Renton, was in the festival, and she was receiving the PIFF Lifetime Achievement Award. We were respectful and didn't bug her, but as my friend and I were talking about something to do with the film festival, Ms Turner heard a bit of what we were talking about, and she had an opinion, so she joined our conversation.   
This afternoon I ran into animator Emily Hubley, walking down Commercial Street between films. Her animated shorts have been featured at The Museum of Modern Art, Tribeca Film Festival, Seattle International Film Festival and many others. We must have similar tastes, because we often end up at the same films when she's here for our festival. We've talked at a few parties over the years, and I've been pleased to get to know her a bit. I can spot her distinctive animation style without even looking at the credits. Among others, she did the animation for HEDWIG AND THE ANGRY INCH, which was a favorite among audience members when it played here. I've been crying for more animation at PIFF since the beginning, and it's been great to see a bit more of it here.
One of the greatest PIFF pleasures for me came in the very early years of the festival, when I found myself sitting off to the side in the row ahead of Emily's mother, renowned animator Faith Hubley, whom I had become acquainted with through my work as a volunteer with the festival. During a screening of her beautiful film OUR SPIRITED EARTH,  I found I could turn in my seat and see the joy and amusement on Faith's face as she sat in the midst of the crowd watching her film, feeling their reactions to her work. I spent as much time watching her face as I did watching the film that afternoon.
Well, gotta dash...I'm off to see this years program of animated shorts. There's still time, with more than 30 films playing on Sunday, so get out and see a couple, and put us on your calendar for next year. The 15th Annual Provincetown International Film Festival will be a great excuse for you to come to visit us. I guarantee, many of these films will not soon be coming to a theater near you!

Public Art Meets PTown Legend

This past week, on my day off, I visited Mojo's for their guacamole taco (vegetarian, about 3 bucks and delish!) and spent a few reverent moments celebrating the 193rd anniversary of the sighting of the sea serpent by Captain Hawkins Wheeler, in local waters, on June 6th, 1819.
I ate my lunch sitting at one of the picnic tables on the covered patio behind Mojo's, quietly contemplating the seventeen-foot mural that wraps around the corner of this venerable institution which has been serving up tasty, inexpensive eats to Townies and tourists alike for forty years. In 1978, famed local artist Bill Evaul painted Mojo's exterior wall with his impression of the serpent described by the old sea captain in this epic P'Town legend.
Captain Wheeler and his crew were aboard the sloop Concord, out of Fairfield, Connecticut, sailing off the western shore of Provincetown near Race Point, when they saw the horse-shaped head of a serpent rise about eight feet out of the water. It was a calm day, and fine weather, so they had a good view of the creature, which they saw only fourteen rods (about 230 feet) from the vessel. This sea serpent turns out to have been spotted by many sailors over a number of years, according to The Atlantic Monthly. An article written by J. G. Wood in June of 1884 chronicles sightings over many years of what seems to have been the very same creature, with accounts reported and sworn to by legions of reliable and sober citizens over a stretch of a number of years.
A similar sighting had occurred near Gloucester on June 20th, 1815, about a quarter of a mile out into the harbor, and the Gloucester Telegraph reported a sighting that had occurred on August 18th, 1817, from a distance of only thirty feet. A year later, in August of 1818, the creature was near the shore for a period of a couple of weeks, and "multitudes of spectators" gathered to watch it. Unbeknownst to Captain Wheeler, when he saw the serpent, it, or a close relative, had been seen by hundreds of people including ministers and marshals as well as a good many seafaring men. All had given a similar description, including the head shaped like that of a horse.
Descriptions over the years also mentioned dark eyes the size of dinner plates, and something resembling a horse's mane on the head. In 1833 to 1835, articles about several sightings appeared in the Boston papers and the New York Times. When I googled "Race Point sea serpent" I found several links. If you find these stories intriguing, you may want to get a copy of The Great Sea Serpent, available as an e-book, and chock full of sea monsters, like the one mentioned on page 195, spotted about nine miles offshore from the Race Point lighthouse in April of 1835.
Read a couple of paragraphs about another local serpent of a slightly different description spotted off the shores of Provincetown in 1875 at this link to a book called The Great New England Sea Serpent. It's great to be able to go to sites like google and read a bit of the book to decide whether to buy it. I almost always buy any book I can find about PTown lore and the endless array of "characters" that have shaped its colorful history.
I also found a Cape Cod history and genealogy site that led me to a report by Capt. Robert Platt, U. S. coast and geodetic survey which even includes a drawing of what he and his crew saw that day in 1878. And I found a YouTube video called The Great Provincetown Sea Serpent Story! featuring some local folks who mention a serpent spotted in Provincetown Harbor by a relative of Ben Franklin in the early seventeen hundreds. They also stage a tongue-in-cheek re-enactment of the 1886 sighting of a much larger monster seen by the Town Crier of that day, one George Washington Ready, who swore that he was "not unduly excited by liquor or otherwise" at the time of the sighting. To read more about Ready's serpent, and many other Provincetown stories and legends, look for a book in the Provincetown Public Library, written by Herman Jennings and published in 1890, called Provincetown, or, Odds and Ends from the Tip End. Click this link to go to an listing for used copies of the paperback version of this book published in 1975. There you can read several pages from the book. I just ordered a copy myself a few minutes ago.
So, you see, there have been many sightings of serpents off the shores of Provincetown over the years. Next time you're hungry, stop by Mojo's at 5 Ryder Street Extension, near the bus plaza. Order something tasty and take it around back to the patio, where you'll find this mural of a Provincetown legend. It was painted more than thirty years ago, on a cinder block wall, so it could use a little touch-up, but it's definitely worth a look. Spend a few minutes enjoying Provincetown's wonderful tradition of supporting public art, like Bill Evaul's whimsical depiction of the Race Point Sea Serpent of 1819.