Friday, June 21, 2013

PTown's New West End Restaurant - Devon's Deep Sea Dive

Devon's roasted oyster appetizer is terrific.
Devon Ruesch has opened a new Provincetown restaurant where the old Tip for Tops'n used to be, at 31 Bradford Street. I went for dinner shortly after the opening night of Devon's Deep Sea Dive and found that some of the homey charm of the old neighborhood restaurant still exists amid the sleek new table tops and chairs and the new floor and paint job that bring this restaurant out of the 1960s. The old ship's wheels still divide the dining area, and a variety of stuffed fish mounted high on the walls still ring the room, recalling a bit of the funky charm of the former dive that had occupied this space since the Carreiro family began running it in 1966. The neighborhood will miss the old restaurant and it's Portuguese staples, but Devon's Deep Sea Dive brings a bit of creativity and some really good seafood to this part of town, and soon it will also become a beloved little neighborhood eatery.
Stuffed scallops, broccolini and delicious crimini rice.
The menu is divided down the middle with one side offering "old school" appetizers and entrées such as a lobster bisque, clam fritters, a Portuguese seafood stew, and whole fried clams served with fries and house slaw. The "new school" side of the menu lists appetizers like the guanciale wrapped shrimp and a massaged kale salad, along with entrées like olive oil poached cod and a Caribbean fish stew. I ordered from both sides.
I had the roasted Wellfleet oysters, pictured at the top of the page, made with crumbled bacon and pickled ramps, a member of the onion family, somewhere between a wild spring onion and a baby leek. The oysters were served atop a spinach nage, delicately poached in a flavorful broth. This course ranks as one of the best dishes I had tasted anywhere in Provincetown during the week.
For my entrée I went old school, with the stuffed scallops. A good-sized ramekin was filled with big, tender scallops and a seafood stuffing made with shrimp, perfectly cooked and seasoned. It was served with broccolini and a delightful crimini rice, nicely flavored with fresh crimini mushrooms and finished in a frying pan, giving it a flavor and texture I've been craving ever since I tasted it.
Devon's Sundae is one of several dessert choices.
For dessert I had Devon's Sundae, made with Tahitian vanilla gelato and a drizzle of hot fudge and caramel sauce (it could have used a smidge more of the hot fudge and caramel) and garnished with whipped cream and a tasty bit of salted nut brittle. All in all, quite a satisfying meal.
The menu is a little pricey, but the food is really quite good, made with impeccable ingredients. All meats are organic and free range, seafood is wild-caught and sourced as near our harbor as possible. Service was good, which is not always the case in a brand new restaurant, and you aren't likely to find a more affable and gracious host than Devon. This little spot will become a Provincetown dining destination.
The Dive will be open daily except Wednesdays starting this weekend, with breakfast from 8 AM till 1 PM, and dinner from 5:30 PM till 10 PM, closed Wednesdays. There is a small parking lot on the east side of the building. For reservations call 508 487-0266.
I want to go for breakfast tomorrow. It'll be nice to have another breakfast place where your meal will undoubtedly rise to the level of the legendary breakfast that is served at the original Devon's on Commercial Street.

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