Monday, May 25, 2015

What's New in PTown? Devon's Food Bar

The Pig's Ears at Devon's Food Bar may just be
my favorite new Provincetown bar food this year.
Devon's Bradford Street location, at the corner of Pleasant Street, is shape-shifting this summer. Its focus has turned to global bar foods, with flavors and influences from around the world in snacks, bites, small plates and bowls, ranging from $2 to $12, no kidding, and perfectly suited for sharing and tasting.
There's a new bar, too, called On The Rocks, made from an old dory that Devon has spruced up, turning it into a sleek, comfortable bar featuring more than 30 thoughtfully selected wines from around the world (11 of them by the glass,) a variety of unique cocktails and half-a-dozen good New England beers.
I'm working my way around the menu. On my last visit I had to try the Julienned Fried Pig's Ears, a delicacy I had never had before that day, but I've had this perfect bar food on my mind ever since. These thinly sliced strips are deep fried, so they're crispy, yet somehow still tender, dashed with a bit of chipotle lime salt and served with a spicy pique puree dipping sauce: a just-right blend of chilies, pineapple, a little vinegar and a bit of garlic.
The fried chickpeas are light, a little crunchy, with a great
blend of middle eastern spices - again, a perfect bar snack.
I couldn't stop munching on them, washing 'em down with a cold New England beer. I tried a good IPA White, still nice and hoppy but with a little lighter body than the darker IPA. I tried them both, and each also went well with the Fried Chickpeas with their Zatar Spice. That's a middle eastern blend of sesame, dried mint, oregano and sumac, sprinkled on chickpeas that have been fried up light and a little crispy. These make a great bar snack to munch on with a beer or a cocktail.
The new bar is beautiful, by the way. A lot of Townies dropped in to try it out while I was there that evening.

Stewed linguica is a great dish with a Portuguese influence.

Chefs Melissa Ettinger and Lourdes "Uyi" Ortiz  cook with ingredients from around the world, and take their inspiration from the cuisines of many regions. Asian specialties include real ramen noodles, made fresh, in-house. Bacala√≠tos are salt cod fritters that originated in Puerto Rico, now popular in the Dominican Republic and in other countries.
Mexican street tacos are on the menu, one with meat and another is vegan, each wrapped in a fresh, house made corn tortilla shell. A new favorite dish of mine is stewed linguica with melted onions and figs, served with grilled peasant bread.
Right now Devon's Food Bar is open Friday through Sunday for dinner, from 5:30 to 10 PM, at 31 Bradford Street. They have a random selection of 3 or 4 of their snacks and bites at half price during happy hour, currently Saturdays and Sundays from 4 to 6 PM, and they offer a great breakfast Friday through Monday from 8 AM to 1 PM. Those hours will change on June 15th, when breakfast and dinner will both be served daily, except Thursdays, when they'll be closed. Parking is available, too.
Try this new bar, and a few items from Devon's new menu of global bar foods, and you'll be back for more of these wonderful flavors, and another trip around the world.

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